It seemed to take forever as I went through endless planning for this trip. I read books on Safaris, surfed the net searching for the elusive information about how, when and where to go. Just when it felt that it was not going to work it fell into place but not until I actually left on the safari. That says something about traveling to a third world country with unreliable tour operators with varying prices and changing schedules. One of them actually canceled the trip just before I was leaving the US. I decided to go anyway and try my luck in Tanzania in a small town called Arusha. It turned out to be a wise decision since all the tour operators are located there and you can check and compare what you are getting. More on the planning and going later in the "Traveler's tips." Let me get on with the actual experience.

 

                       

       I left Arusha in a Land Rover as the only occupant besides the driver/guide towards Serengeti. A three-hour trip on the road led to the Rough road - a bone jarring drive towards Lake Manyara. Another hour later I arrived in the first National park- Manyara. The road was soon full of Baboons who were reluctant to give way but provided ample opportunity to photograph. Then it was the turn of Monitor Lizard, Zebras and elephants. A couple of the elephants put on a show worthy of a circus performance as they washed themselves with muddy water. One of them stood cross-legged and contorted his trunk in different directions. The show was over after 10 minutes and he was joined by another elephant that made it quite clear they wanted to cross the road and my vehicle was in their way. I confirmed their intentions with the driver who pointed out that it was better not to get the elephants in a bad mood. So we moved and the elephants made their crossing. We moved on to this spectacle of Giraffes about 6 of them standing absolutely still as if they were part of the landscape. It was quite a sight to photograph them against the blue sky. Giraffes headed at a languid pace towards the lake where they were joined by Zebras and Buffaloes. I had seen more in 15 minutes than I expected to see feeling that the drive was worth the experience. We now left the park for our destination that afternoon the Ngrongoro Crater. Another bone jarring ride a couple of flats later we arrived at the Luxurious lodge with a view of the crater.

 

                            Serena Lodges are in a manner of speaking, a throw back to the Colonial world. You enter this very polite, artificial, well-mannered environment where you have to wait for the attendants to do everything and they must enquire politely if you had a "good game drive." You are seated at a table, served the soup and then asked to avail yourself of the buffet with overcooked meat and bland dishes. The tourists are from all over French, German, American, and Czech. After dinner you can go the bar or watch a wild life video and return to your room with the curtains drawn and bed made.

 

                                Next morning I left for the crater experience. Some 2.5 million years ago a volcano collapsed on itself rather than exploding. It left a crater with a diameter of 20 Km with spring water in the middle. This area became a fertile land and an attraction for animals since this has water even in the driest season. Animals can be seen here year round and include every wild animal and birds during migration. We slowly descended the wall of the crater. THIS IS WHEN YOU KNOW YOU NEED TO BE IN 4 WHEEL drive. We meandered to the lake and there were hundreds of "lesser and greater pink Flamingoes." Another chance to take out your camera and snap away. Then it was the turn of the Orange crowned crane carrying on a mating dance.   A magnificent bird by any stretch of the imagination. We moved on to see Hyenas and Impalas. Somewhere in the distance were a bunch of vehicles crowded together. My driver headed in the direction saying "Lion." I expected to see a lion or two in great distance. To my surprise, there were 8 Lions stretched out on the road looking disinterested at the fuss around them. Soon there were 8 Land Rover in every direction with scores of people snapping pictures. Then one of the Lions walked over to sit under a Land rover to avail himself of the shade to the shrieks of women. I had my turn as one of them walked over to with in a foot of my vehicle to lap water from a mud puddle. I NERVOUSLY REACHED FOR MY CAMERA and started videotaping and taking close up shots. Lions were not only well behaved but also often posed for photographs. I did not know then that I would have this opportunity several times over. We left as the Lions decided to move on in search of other game. I saw a Rhino in a distance and more Impalas and Thompson's Gazelles. We circled the base of the crater and next thing I know there are herds of Wilde Beast. Wilde Beat is a cross between a cow and a horse and is of course ugly and seems to dash off in some direction without purpose, hence the name.  We arrived a gorgeous waterhole for a picnic. I was advised to watch out for the Black Kite if I wanted to eat out of the vehicle. After lunch, it was on to another road towards thousands of Wilde Beast and Zebra. This is the time when it starts to rain that Wilde Beast give birth to their young before moving on. What a spectacle?

 

                             Reluctantly, I left towards Serengetti. We climbed out of the crater up the side and over a mountain to the view of the Serengeti plains. We were back on the rough road again bouncing towards Serengeti. March is the month of migration of the Wildebeast, Zebra and Impalas. There were thousands of them on both sides of the road stretching far into an endless horizon. Masai, the local nomadic inhabitants named Serengeti- " Endless plain is called Serengtti in Masai language. Now the legend of Masai according to my driver, "Masai men are lazy like the lions, they don't do any work, children graze the cattle, women do all the work; even build the houses. When Masai men have a few extra cows they get another wife. They go into town and drink. That is all they do." Enviable lifestyle!! However, the driver further informed me that Impala are not far behind. Males and females live separately. A male will then run off adversaries and have all the females to himself. He can mate with any female. Then he loses his strength and another male takes over! So much for the wild life wisdom. We arrived at the next Lodge for another buffet dinner, sleep and start again next morning.

 

                                        No sooner had we left the lodge that the driver stopped his jeep and whispered, "lion." There was another bunch of young males lazing around. We then went all over the massive plains. The reason fro Serengetti's popularity is its vast size, 1.5 million animals including leopard and cheetah and easy viewing because of the flatness of the ground, low grass and few bushes. There were once again hundreds of Zebras, Impalas, wild beast, Ostrich, antelope, giraffe and hippos. Hippos spend there daytime wallowing in water up to their ears in close proximity. They snort and move around but stay submerged. My driver was prone to point out each animal's weight, gestation period and average life expectancy. I returned that evening to the Lodge to have few beers and stretch out. Three days had gone by, I had seen everything except a leopard and a cheetah. I figured I would tell my driver that was all I wanted to see since I had seen everything else.

Next day we left in search of a cheetah. They are hard to locate. So we circled the entire plain of Serengeti.  More lions, Giraffe and Zebra but no cheetah. Saw a hyena chase and stalking lion but no kill! Then we saw some jeeps around a tree. Out in the distance on a tree were two hanging legs of an impala. How did it get there? The answer - a leopard. We scrutinized the tree till we located two more legs and the tail of a leopard with the binoculars but too far to take a picture. A few minutes later we found more jeeps around another tree. There was another leopard clearly visible but hard to get a good photograph. I put the tripod on my video camera and zoomed to the extreme to get a dark picture but I had one. The day ended but no cheetah.

 

                                  Day 5- we set out on the journey back. The driver seemed to be going everywhere but nowhere. No game in sight. I wondered  why? I figured he was showing me the sights now that I had my fill of the wild animals. I suggested we head back. He said he was going the slow way. We finally turned on the road. He stopped and said, "Look Cheetah!" There he was on the side of the road lying on a termite hill and the driver had looked for him everywhere. I was close enough to take pictures and video. Satisfied, We headed back to Lake Manyara. The Serena Lodge in Lake Manyara is perched on top of a mountain with the view of the lake. A lazy morning and we headed back to Arusha that afternoon. I shot a whole hour of video and 100 pictures!! I will let you know when I post the pictures on my homepage.

 

                      People in Tanzania are generally medium height, slim, genial and polite. The country has the usual problems of poverty, illiteracy, corruption, poor infrastructure and malnutrition. The population is mostly African Muslims who live peaceably with Christians, Asians control business and are the target of robberies and rape. J. Nyere ruled the country for 35 years in a socialist experiment that failed miserably. He went to Edinburgh for college according to a disenchanted Scottish pastor. His party CCM rules with a corrupt administration. Hope now is for democracy since Nyere died. But it could be worse with a multi party democracy. Crime is rising. Do not walk the streets at night. Infrastructure is poor. The telephone book for Tanzania including yellow pages is one quarter of New Orleans white pages. Food unremarkable or bland.  Indian food is mostly the only choice for anything that has taste. Try Kilmanjaro beer and South African Wine, meat is better well done to prevent infection except in Serena lodges.

 

If you want to go for wild life safari in Africa-

Traveler's Tips

Where to go: I chose Tanzania specifically Serengeti for the number of animals one can see (100,000 tourists go there annually), safety and the month. The migration of herd is in March in Serengeti. Tanzania is safer than South Africa and Kenya. I was told to avoid going into Nairobi.

 

When to Go: March is best month. Mid-December to March is OK. April to June is rainy season. July to November the animals move elsewhere except Ngrongoro.

 

How to Go: Fly KLM or Emirates to Nairobi, take a 5 hour shuttle bus to Arusha in Tanzania or go to Dar es Salaam and take a flight to Arusha or a 9 hour bus ride.

Guide Books- Lonely Planet Tanzania, Zanzibar and Pemba

 

Travel Agents- The most difficult thing to do. I was quoted wildly exorbitant prices from US. Most operators are based in UK and demand a bank transfer up to 50% of the cost. Site unseen I did not want to get into it. Credit card charges are up to 10 to 20%. The best thing to do is go to Arusha and see them for yourself. Examine the vehicle and the lodges and the competition is intense.

 

Cost-  Expect to pay $100/day for a camping safari, $200/day for a mid range lodge, $300/day for luxury lodge. This includes meals, park fees except tips and drinks (take your wine, beer and snacks with you).

Lodges- Serena Lodges - top of the line cost $180-200/night. Well-maintained, bland food, sterile, efficient, romantic

Sopa Lodges- $130-160/night, Serengeti lodge has better views than Serena, better food, a little character, king beds and big rooms, no telephone in room

WildLife Lodges- Cheaper, did not stay in one but they look functional

 

Suggested Itinerary: 1 night in Arusha on arrival to get over the jet lag, next day go to Ngrongoro for 2 nights, 1 night in Serengeti. That should be plenty of wild life viewing. I was told Zanzibar for a couple of days are a better choice than a longer safari.

 

Money matters: No ATM's, cash ($100) has better exchange rate than Travelers checks, Change only what you have to, hotels accept dollar bills, Credit cards have 10 to 20% fees.

 

Cameras Etc: For SLR camera at least 200mm lens, video 100x min., take plenty of film- more than you think. Binoculars at least 40x10.

Other things to consider: Face mask to keep from inhaling dust and exhaust, a cushion for your bottom and a good back. Sandals will suffice since you won't be doing any walking, no physical exertion is required. Light jacket for evenings.

Tanzania requires a VISA and YELLOW FEVER VACCINATION. Take Larium 1 week before and I week after for Malaria prevention.

 

In Arusha :

Hotels; Impala $65/day ask for room 214, argue for a fan and TV

             Novotel - $120-$150

Restaurants- Indian- Amar Cuisine in Town                      

                      Italian- Mezaluna Next to Impala

                      Ethopian- Herbs and spices Next to Impala

Music- Colobus Club

Things to Buy- Wood carvings at Cultural Heritage- good selection and prices to match

Internet- Easily accessible in most hotels and around Clock tower for $3 to 5 per hour.

Travel agent I used- Bobby Tours. Email: Bobbytours@habari.co.tz

See Lonely Planet, ask for Mushtaqali or Hanif.

 

Vehicles- Land Rover- reliable in mud, Toyota more comfortable

I stayed at Impala Hotel in Arusha, Serena Lodges in Serengeti, Ngrongoro, Manyara and Sopa Lodge in Serengeti.

 

Jambo

(greeting in Swahili, the local language)