May 2003

           

                       “Why Uzbekistan?” asked my fellow travelers. The answer is History. India was ruled by Moghuls from 15th to 18th century. Moghuls gave India its monuments including Taj Mahal. Babur, the fist Moghul to conquer India was known to have complained of lack of monuments, gardens and cuisine in his autobiography. I wondered where did he come from. What was it about this land that he claimed was more civilized than the ancient India? Babur had never been to South India so he did not know what else there was in India but what of Babur himself? Babur was defeated in Bukhara by the locals twice and decided to try his luck elsewhere and conquered Afghanistan and then India. He defeated Sultan of Delhi, who had overwhelming numbers but Babur had superior technology, the canon. He claimed inheritance from his mother’s side from Timurlane and father’s side from Genghis Khan. Genghis Khan had the largest empire of Mongols bigger than Rome and Alexander. Many generations later Timur was a sheep herder in a small town close to Samarkand and became the Amir of Samarkand. Both Genghis Khan and Timur had plundered India. Timur the lame (War wounds), returned from his plunder of Delhi in 1399 and brought money and artisans from the countries he looted and built Samarkand. The Uzbeks claim him to be their hero with monuments and museums in his name that have now replaced Lenin and Stalin. Timur apparently a cultured man in his country brooked no violence in his country while terrorizing others built in his day remarkable monuments with blue domes and glazed tiles. Yes, there are still gardens that Tartars (Mongols) still have with overgrown weeds and blooming roses.

                        Uzbekistan has a muddled history with Iranians, Turks, Timur and later Soviet’s rule to independence in 1991. Bukhara was a city of scientists and artists in 6th and 7th century. Samarkand reached its pre eminence under Timur but lost its relevance after the Silk Road that passed through Bukhara and Samarkand was surpassed by the shipping route discovered by Portuguese sailors. The Silk Road was the superhighway for ages and much trade, ideas and religion traversed its path. The first astronomical observatory in 15th century was constructed by Ulug Bek, grandson of Timur.

 

                                Uzbekistan, today is less than a mere shadow of itself in it’s hey day. It is still under the control of an autocrat Islam Karimov, an ex-communist. Despite scandals, he has managed to try a gradual road to capitalism. There is no chaos or crime on the streets with ever present policemen who work on “commission basis” with salary accounting for very little of their income. The inflation rate has stabilized at 24%/year. The average salary is $10/month. People are friendly especially in Bukhara and Samarkand. Hospitable to a fault, polite and curious about foreigners often asking me to be in their pictures. I was offered drinks as a guest and refused to allow me to pay. The roads do not have much traffic, level of intellect is low and people from different ethnic backgrounds live peacefully. Much of their development is owed to forced modernization by Soviets. Tashkent is the only semi modern city with businessmen from India, Korea and Indonesia as entrepreneurs. The hotels are built by Indians and run by Germans.

 

                                Bukhara, to be precise is a gem of architectural marvels on a small scale with colorful blue and yellow tiles in geometric patterns decorating the facades of Mosques and Madrassahs. Much of the history is of egregious brutality practiced by its mad Amir Nasrallah apparently poisoned by Mercury treatments he received. His autocratic absolute rule mixed with orgiastic excess has many a legends with a few British its victims. One of them was thrown into a bug pit and later executed and so were any other foreigners of western origin. Hindu money lenders were forced to live without women and Jews forced to wear clothing that demarcated them. His castle stands along with the jail. Criminals were tied in sacks routinely thrown from the Kalon tower to a large crowd enjoying the spectacle. The tower stands next to a beautifully decorated Madarssah with grounds covered by souvenir sellers and utterly sweat and friendly children and dancing local women. Lyab-i-Khaus is a small pond with restaurant around it was the highlight of every evening. A kaleidoscope of activity to please the eye.

 

                                        Samarkand too has its share of brutality. Timur’s favorite Chinese wife Bibi Khanum had a Mosque constructed in his honor while he was on one of his campaigns. The architect demanded to kiss her before he would complete it. She told him, “Take one of the slave girls. Look at this dish of colored eggs, every shade of rainbow, yet break them open and they are all the same.” Her suitor brought two piala bowls, filling one with spring water and the other with white wine. “Their color and shape are the same, but one leaves me cold and the other is intoxicating.” She reluctantly gave in. When Timur heard of this he had her thrown from a minaret. Women were now bidden to wear veils lest they attract attention. The main attraction is Registan square that has three mausoleums that are a photographer’s dream. The blue domes glisten with sunlight and the square is deserving of the poetry ascribed to it. The monuments in Uzbekistan come off poorly compared with Moghul monuments in India in scale, beauty and artistry. The history museum close to Registan is worth a visit and so is the remnant of Ulug Bek’s observatory on the outskirts of town. There is Daniel’s tomb that grows every year!

 

                         The Uzbek national poet Navoie was regarded by my parents’ generation the Shakespeare of Persian. He wrote the ballads of “Shirin and Ferhad” and “Laila Mujnu”- the Romeo and Juliet stories of unrequited love. He lived in Samarkand although he was born in Herat, Afghanistan.

 

                                Tashkent meanwhile has little to offer, the soviet capital has its share of modern buildings and wide roads and modernity with much better food than elsewhere in Uzbekistan. The country is a vegetarian’s nightmare. The local specialty shahlik is a poor cousin of sheeshkebab. The food and the bread were barely edible in its poor quality of meat and seasoning. I wonder what Babur would have to say today of his homeland and his adopted country!

 

Tips for travelers:

Time to go: Early May, September

B&B’s are better than Hotels and apparently have better food

Restaurant:

 Tashkent: Cassandra, Ragu

GuideBook: "Uzbekistan" by Calum Macleod, Odyssey Guide