Rio de Janeiro

 

                                                     Pronounced “Hio Zanero” by the “Cariocas” (locals) is also referred to as “Cidade Marvillosa” – marvelous city. Rio certainly lives up to its name as far its natural beauty is concerned. There isn’t a more beautiful city in the world that has this marvelous confluence of magnificent curved beaches and hills in the background with a certain sensuality to its inhabitants. Even the “Favella” (poor) dwellers would rather live there since it affords fabulous views of the sea. The tourists generally live in the more famous beach communities of Copacabana or Ipanema while the wealth have started move to Barra Tijuca which is then new and upcoming neighborhood. The rents in Ipanema (The girl from Ipanema) and Copacabana are astronomical probably because everyone from the neighboring countries wants to come to Rio to party.  It is easy to see why these two places have acquired their lore in modern day romantic history.

 

 People

                      Cariocas (name given by Indians to Europeans because they lived in little white huts). An interesting humorous book “How to be a Carioca” gives a fair description of their ways. Most Cariocas are seen walking along the beach at all times of day or night wearing the skimpiest of clothes (95% of skin must be exposed). Although most young people go the gym everyday for several hours. The shape of ones body has little to do with baring it on the beach. One can see pot bellied men in Speedos and women with large surgical scars equally comfortable with their bare skin. People carry little if any possessions on the beach for fear of being robbed. Even a walkman or a backpack can serve as an invitation. Therefore almost no cameras are visible on this very picturesque site. The Cariocas delight in playing either beach volleyball or “Fuchebol” – which is volleyball with no hands. One can see from their natural athletic skill why this country produces so many athletes. People are very friendly, affectionately touching and generous.

 

Brazilians are from everywhere- Portuguese, Italian, Spanish, Swiss, African and “Indian” (American). The main language of discourse however is Portuguese. It is virtually impossible to find anything to read in English. Bookstores have few English paperbacks and at least 30% of the books are on “Psychoanalysis” not the self-help kind but serious books. The lack of English speakers left me to rely on very few people for an impression of the country.

 

Sights

             While Copacabana seems to have aged and very crowded; Ipanema has less crowded, more genteel quality as does Leblon. One can roam the streets watching people go by, drink coconut juice or “Sucos” – delicious mixed fruit juices. English however is spoken rarely by the locals leaving one little to do but eat Barbecued meat with “Feijaon” (black beans) with large Brahma Chopp (Beer) and pass a sleepy hot afternoon.

 

               Rest of Rio shows its 500 years of aging. There are monuments and buildings on a grandiose scale that certainly makes one look at them in awe. The downtown is a hub of activity with people of all colors.

 

                    Travel in Brazil is very expensive and quite difficult if you don’t speak Portuguese as well as dangerous. This confined me to Rio and its environs. In the environs are the magnificent “Costa Verde”- which proves the “fertility of earth” and the royal retreats of Petropolis and Teresopolis. Brazilians would rather go to Miami or New York since it is cheaper to go there.

 

Politics

                     Everyone in Brazil is an economist and complains about how the government has served them poorly. The current President Cordoso was elected with hope since he was a “sociologist” but has failed to assuage the feelings of middle classes that feels betrayed. The interest rates were recently reduced from 30% to 22%. Inflation is under control but so are the wages. The opposition leader Lula seemed to have recently lost his coalition of parties and may have a difficult time against the “corrupt” government candidate. Crime is ubiquitous and omnipresent. The rich move further away in isolated, guarded neighborhoods while other have to fend for themselves even in Public buses. Medical services are in disarray and poorly funded.

 

Culture

             Movies are all Hollywood and in English with subtitles. Brazilian movie makers have shifted to TV. The serials are watched by most in the evenings but incomprehensible to me. There are quite a few large sophisticated shopping malls with a heavy security presence.  

Music is everywhere and shows fairly expensive. It was difficult to sense the originality of the music since the “pop” music has absorbed most of it. However, dance forms like “Pagode” – a street version of Samba is something to watch. One can also find “country” music by singers wearing cowboy hats.

  One more look at the Copacabana beach and I am on my way to Buenos Aires.

 

   

 

Buenos Aires

 

                                    BA is truly the Paris of America. Mayor Alvear tore down a good bit of the city and built a city to resemble Paris and largely succeeded. He is known to have cut the telephone lines himself when they posed an obstruction to his plans. The city is full of wide avenues and buildings on either end modeled after monuments from other cities. The parliament building is modeled after the US Congress. The presidential residence called “Casa Rosada” has that color. There are equestrian statues everywhere monumentalizing some hero on every corner. There is a certain sophisticated ambience about Buenos Aires that is rare in South America.

 

                                   One can see why they feel “superior”. Most of the population is white so there appear to be few racial conflicts. However, they prefer not to have all these “outsiders” from neighboring countries.

 

                                     The obligatory visit to the “cemetery” is worthwhile. One is reminded of New Orleans. Argentineans wealthy have built monuments to themselves that are rare to be found elsewhere. The saying goes, “It is cheaper to live rich in Buenos Aires than to die rich.” Eva Peron’s grave is hard to find and seems rather insignificant and apparently caused quite a bit of chagrin. The public transportation is cheap, efficient and not too difficult to negotiate. However, the thing to do is to have coffee at “Café La Paix”. The cafes around the cemetery are what give a unique feel to the city. There are well groomed, beautiful people engaged in discourse over a glass of wine watching others walk by. What a way to pass the evening!

 

People

             I was warned by everyone to be wary of the people. I can not recall one unpleasant experience and found people very helpful. There are the occasional “misunderstandings”. An expatriate American reminded to check everything twice. My experience may have been better because of the neighborhood. All in all, I would recommend BA over Rio for its ambience, cafes and pleasant walks in a generally safe city.

 

Politics

            People are well read and well informed about the state of the world. Politics is another matter. Corruption is expected and President Menem and his government have done little to change that view. Opposition to ones views is dealt with harshly. 17 journalists were killed in 1997. The local English Language paper “Herald” has a reputation for its honest reporting. The editors have at times been exiled and published from out of the country. Argentina’s ills are blamed on the interventions of US that have opposed all parties with a  liberal agenda and supported dictators. The currency is pegged to the dollar on a one to one basis. Dollar is accepted as the currency. 35% of the population has all the wealth and can live with the exorbitant prices; the rest barely get by. You would not know that in BA though.

 

Culture

              Culturally the city is very alive. There is plenty to choose from film, art galleries, theatre and lectures. English is easily understood in some parts of town. Recoleta is the chic neighborhood to hand around in. English is well understood there. Expensive apartment buildings with a doorman are everywhere. The apartments inside are decorated with great care. It appears that Argentineans wish to impress you with their European airs and a love of classical Europe. In someways; one wonders about the lack of originality in their expression. The Museum of fine arts was impressive given the number of impressionist paintings and Rodin sculptures. The local art is reasonably impressive but rarely unique in its perspective.

              The prodigious literature has certainly piqued my interest. I asked the obvious question regarding love and death. The response was that is the Spanish tradition in a very authoritarian society. One wonders whether an intensely emotional romantic people responded to the oppression of middle ages Catholicism by this fear of love’s demise! And then ended up romanticizing that. There are motels along the cemetery that rent by the hour!

 

                        Tango bars are interesting in the technical skill of their dancers and the music but the element of dark romance seemed to be missing. It is time to go to another country….

 

 

Colonia

 

                          One hour by fast boat on the huge river Platta and you are in the once disputed colonial city of Colonia in Uruguay. The city is a UNESCO heritage site. All the UNESCO sites have impressed me. May be my next trip will be to only those sites in the world. Back, to the present- Colonia is a quiet resort tourist town now with its share of cobble stone streets turned into tourist shops. If you have few hours to spare you can hop the ferry to see this beautiful city. The remarkable event was getting a 5000 peso note that was worth 50 cents and being cheated by a cab driver who brought me to the ferry terminal 100 yards away for $2.00. The tour was in Spanish so I understood little and walked around the charming town taking pictures.

 

That is another country for you. Time to go home….it has been more than a year.