China
1997
I visited Shanghai and Suzhou in the dead of winter around Christmas holidays. The weather was mostly clod and rainy except for a day of sunshine. So what is China like? The 25 minute drive from the Airport was accompanied by high-rises on both sides till one reaches downtown which is a thoroughly modern looking with skyscrapers in every direction. The landscape is dominated by the world’s third highest TV tower which is quite a spectacular landmark. Shanghai was part of the “concession” to Europeans by China and has regained its former glory under “liberalized communism.” The streets have English names in the downtown area but most everything else is in Chinese. I ended up ordering food by looking at the pictures or pointing at someone else’s plate. There were pleasant and unpleasant surprises in the process. Sometimes one is glad to see McDonald’s. The best part of food was ‘steamed bread’ which is “dumplings with stuffing of vegetables or meat.”
Traveling
China is not easy to travel in or hospitable. People can often be rude in pushing past you since they do not believe in queuing up. You can expect your physical space will be violated without as much as an “excuse me.” The Chinese travel agency is often less than helpful as they discouraged me and another American teacher from taking the city tour. I ended up taking the tour for Chinese which started an hour late. Since I was the only tourist I was given the tour on the city bus by an attractive young woman who spoke good English. Halfway through the tour she told me the lunch is included for Chinese but not for foreigners so I had to pay for her and my lunch which ended up being quite good. If you did not get the idea yet that there are two prices: one for Chinese and other for foreigners. I paid $5.00 for a train ticket going to Suzhou bought from Official Chinese travel agency and $3.00 coming back. Most prices are double for Foreigners unless you find your way into places where they don’t speak English. It was not possible to use Public Transportation because it is overcrowded and impossible to negotiate. The inter city trains do run on time if you can figure out where your train leaves from!
The State
One does get a sense of a police state which is not too intrusive, by the demeanor of the bureaucracy. The Chinese TV channel gives you news which is all good or constructive criticism of the bad such as “we must improve the state owned enterprises.” The Chinese President is on TV daily pushing the virtues of free market and the need to change and adapt. The Chinese central committees of various sorts approve all resolutions unanimously. There is no investigative reporting. And the bad news is always from rest of the world. However, they do not stop the selling of English language newsmagazines which are sold uncensored. The communist party does control the machinery but it is becoming less powerful and less intrusive. However, the Internet is censored to protect “state secrets.” One funny thing is that all agencies in China are supposed to pay their own way. For example the Military- People’s Liberation Army(PLA) produces and sells everything from pirated software to cars. That should give you an idea about the level of corruption which is now often referred to in the news. There is considerable redundancy in official and other jobs such as a woman in front of the elevator to wish you “good day in Chinese.”
It is possible to buy English language books in a bookstore which is half the size of a Barnes and Noble warehouse. Interesting collection of classics and business books. Several books on how the Chinese plan to deal with change from a state run system to a free market. “They are planning to take over the world.”
People
It is difficult to get a sense of them since I was not able to strike up much conversation mostly because of language problems. An American teacher who had lived there for 6 months found it quite inhospitable compared to Seoul! The Chinese can often be seen engaging in loud arguments with each other or the traffic police. The rules of the road are “anything goes.” The size of the vehicle determines the right of way. Pedestrians can walk anywhere except in front of the City Bus which does not give you way. English is fast becoming the medium of finance and the young who learn in school. In general people are optimistic about their economic future. Family is very important. My young guide informed me that girl children are not “looked down upon” in a country with “One Child” policy. One wonders about all the “special children” in a country with one child per family. Either there is no such neurosis because everyone is “privileged.” Western music can be heard all over TV and Radio. Department stores are emblazoned with western clothes and images. Christmas music was played in most stores and restaurants have Christmas eve dinners. People exchange cards and gifts in a non religious country. Chinese are aggressive and “pushy” in their manner and of course they would all like to sell you something.
Sights
Shanghai is a modern metropolitan full of fancy skyscrapers. You can see Michael Jordan on a 20 foot screen in Downtown. The Shanghai museum is worth a visit for the magnificent collection of early Chinese bronzes, porcelain(Did you ever wonder where the wonder China came from when people refer to their plates and cups!) and paintings. Their is a bare remnant of old Chinese town which is a market now. The newly constructed area called Pudong which has the TV tower and the planned financial center with its tall skyscrapers. However the better sights were in Suzhou. Chinese claim it to be “heaven on earth.” It is only 1.5 hours by train from Shanghai. Its a city of gardens dating back to !5th century BCE. They are a marvel of design in a small space at times and give a sense of serenity, peace and contemplation. They must be quite a sight in Spring- yes! I bought a CD-ROM which shows them in their magnificent splendor.
Places to visit in China on my next trip- Guilin, Huashan mountain and the trip from Lhasa to Kathmandu over the Himalayas or the Korkoram highway all the way to Pakistan.
The future
Can China become a dominant power in the next 10 years? Can China stay together politically? Can China manage the change politically? The answer to these questions goes quite possibly yes! One restraint to rapid growth is the ability of the infrastructure to keep pace. The Chinese have apparently given it some thought and have managed their growth much better than say Bangkok. They are building highways and subways. Managing to keep the cities cleaner than their neighbors. The environmental damage is quite severe but they are conscious of it. The growth May be confined to South China which may become the Financial center of the East and may indeed surpass Hongkong. Now the question is political change- the communist party will gradually lose its grip and will have to share power with other interests. Given the pragmatism of PLA anything is possible! However China could break up into different countries. The other likely problems will be rise of crime, corruption and population (they won’t be able to dictate the one child policy!). The argument may be where is the incentive system and can they achieve it with lack of political freedom. The answer is Chinese have been deprived for “centuries”- they have a lot of catching up to do for 1.2 billion people and they are more concerned with their economic interests and less so with their political freedom. If the current power group stays that believes that its political interests and economic interests go hand in hand they will be quite a handful in the next few years and will make their presence known. The problem for US will be whether to side with Japan or China. Can you guess?
China(2004)
Shangri-La to Shangri-La
Writers have imagined and explorers have traveled afar before and since James Hilton first conjured up "Shangri-la" in his classic 1935 novel The Lost Horizon. According to National Geographic magazine however, Hilton may have been inspired by the generic word for a pass in Tibetan - "La" - the pass called Changri La in particular. Changri La, located near the Everest region in Tibet, was a place frequented by the legendary British climber, George Mallory, in his attempts of ascents to Everest in early 1920's. Hilton's valley of Shangri-la is a peaceful place, taking from the world around it, but remaining aloof from all the negative actions of that world. Although idyllic, it is not the paradise of the Bible, nor of any Western philosophy, invoking instead much that is Eastern.
The philosophy of Shangri-La can be summarized in one word: moderation. As an inhabitant of Shangri-La says: "We rule with moderate strictness, and in return we are satisfied with moderate obedience. And I think I can claim that our people are moderately sober, moderately chaste, and moderately honest". "Everything in moderation, even moderation."
Tibet has occupied a place in our imagination ever since and Dalai Lama’s popularity along with my interest in Buddhism served as additional impetus to journey to the mythic land. Lhasa, the capital city of Tibet is high up in the Himalayas requiring a day of adjustment to the altitude. The crown jewel is Potala Palace the home of Dalai Lamas since the 7th century. It is divided into Red and White palace. Red palace houses the temple and administrative complex while White palace served as the chambers. It is a steep climb and thousands of stairs later you descend back to the bottom to see the awe inspiring sight. There is plenty of gold, pearls and gems in the massive statues. The largest is 35 feet high stupa of the 5th Dalai Lama gilded with 3721 kg. of gold, 10,000 pearls and precious stones. The “Wheel of time” is a 200,000 pearl, coral and gold thread mandala. However, the ambience is ruined by noisy, crowded corridors with tourists mostly Chinese who don’t believe in religion. Monks can be seen along with average Tibetans shuffling through the corridors with a devout look. It is full of narrow corridors and stairs with Police in main temples. Imagine Stalin taking over Vatican. The comparison to Vatican is apt in that the religious rulers of the Buddhist kingdom also gathered conspicuous wealth in the name of shunning material wealth. While the people seem to have loved Dalai Lama, it remains questionable whether he looked after his poor people. China invaded Tibet in 1950 and has thoroughly modernized Tibet and brutally suppressed Buddhism. Are the Tibetans better off under the amoral Chinese Communists?
Jokhang temple, is another monastery, temple with the famous wheels that you spin as you walk along in the outer corridor. It was not only very crowded but the smell of burning Yak butter is hard to ignore. However, the ambience is undeniable in hordes of Tibetan villagers especially old women can be seen devoutly bowing and then sliding into a fully prostrate position. They persist with this seemingly forever, I assume to purge themselves of the sins. “Sinners, all of us” in a land of “moderation”. Barkhur bazaar surrounds the temple on all sides selling tourist souvenirs adds a colorful flavor. The city of Lhasa is under renovation as is most of China and very little of the flavor of a far off mythic land remains. Out in the countryside, with endless skies, partially covered with gorgeous clouds, surrounded by mountains, one can imagine, Shangri-La of yore.
Traveling to Tibet requires special security permission from China. Individual tourists are forbidden so I found myself amongst Chinese tourists. The guide spoke no English and neither did my fellow travelers. However, that did not keep some Chinese from a border province of Xinjiang from befriending me. We communicated by sign language and phrasebook. They took me on as a honored guest and treated me to fabulous Chinese dinners in “Communist” restaurants. Their hospitality was overwhelming. They not only paid for my meals but even paid for Taxi fare to the hotel. Women and men often insisted I eat first and even put food in my bowl when I ineptly handled the chopsticks.
The short trip to Tibet left me wishing for more, someday I will make the Korkoram Highway to Pakistan. For now, on to Xi’an – the home of the eighth wonder. The subterranean army of terracotta warriors was discovered accidentally in 1978 by farmers digging a well. Further excavations revealed the now world famous tomb of the first Qin emperor. His reign lasted only 15 years finished off by a farmer’s revolt. It is a massive site with 4 main pits. The first pit is the largest where the army can be seen lined up in battle formation with each soldier distinct with clear evidence of rank and place for each soldier. It has been painstaking restored. The scale of the venture is unimaginable even considering the Egyptians. Clinton, famously told the soldiers, “You can now go home after standing for 2000 years.” None of them moved. The accompanying official stated, “Mr. President, they do not understand English!” The main palace is yet to be excavated because the content of mercury in soil too high to safely excavate. Someday, we might see a whole palace under the ground built for the Emperor who wanted to take it all with him to the next world! It is now on must visit list of every President and head of state.
The archeologist who led the excavation was present and was gracious enough to sign a copy of his book but adamantly refused to have his picture taken. He had a sign next to him, “No Photo”. There is a massive surround cinema that details the construction and excavation of the site. The next site in the city is Blue Goose Pagoda. It was built by a Chinese monk Huan Zhang who traveled to India in 6th century to bring the original teachings of Buddha from India. His writings are the first description of India to the world. Guides are an interesting lot in their conviction of history that is rarely seen in books. My English speaking, young female guide informed me that the Buddhism has 2 branches – One that does not eat meat (Mahayana) and the other that eats meat (Hinayana)!! The name of the pagoda according to her is because the hungry monks saw Blue geese they could eat! This is the strangest definition of Buddhism, I have encountered.
The evening was topped off with a colorful Tang dynasty show that is a cacophony of colorful costumes and traditional Chinese singing to a modernized beat and choreography. A feast for the eyes and a delight for any amateur photographer.
Chinese creation myth has it that the world was once entirely contained in a egg. Inside this egg, grew a giant Pangu, who grew for 18000 years before he emerged. He separated the earth and heaven with a hammer and chisel. Some versions claim that he carved out sun and moon. Everyone agrees that humans and animals were made from Pangu’s lice.
Heaven was my next destination, Guilin. “Better to be a citizen of Guilin than to be immortal”, claimed a Chinese poet. The cruise on Li River from Guilin to Yangshuo is the most remarkable sight I have ever seen. Two thirds of the way into cruise, when all the tourists have tired and returned to their seats climb to the top to the boat and you will see a scenery that has inspired Chinese painters for hundreds of years. This trip reminded me of my bus trip in Italian country side from Florence to Sienna. I had uttered unwittingly, “Impressionists were painting what they saw”. The same is true and even more so of this cruise. The awe inspiring scenery with round limestone hills in thousands (33,000) arising in the mist on both sides of river make for a remarkable sight. Yangshuo is backpacker heaven with mountains on very side. The attractive, fresh out of college, guide asked me if I was interested in a trip to "Shangri-La". How could I refuse? Half an hour's drive later we arrived in a idyllic picturesque village transformed with the cooperation of last remaining (47) Chinese aborigines into a short boat ride in the canals surrounded by misty mountains, green paddies, wild dancing girls, scary guy with a spear and a princess!
What to do in heaven? As a Zen monk would say, “Let the rapture flow through your body…
Change in China in 7 years
All of China seems like a renovation project. Highways, high rises, new airports, roads. Everything is being revamped. The communist era concrete is no longer visible. Airports are world class better. New multi storied malls are visible everywhere stocking all the latest western fashions with prices to match. Beijing is adding 10,000 new drivers every month. The result is traffic jams, pollution and noise of increasing intensity. The environment is being polluted at an incredible rate. Few people are interested in Communist party. Everyone has a new Mantra, "conspicuous consumption". Chinese say we were all in business before, now it is in the open. Small enterprises are everywhere. English is taught from primary school. Communist party is sounding a warning that unless they can control corruption they will be out of power. The party officials children run business empires including Jiang Zemin's son who is involved in Hong Kong real estate empire. Communist party offices have marble floors. Oh! how they have changed. One Chinese official absconded to US with 2 billion dollars. They do treat foreigners now with courtesy but Taxi drivers will cheat every chance they get including dropping you off several blocks from your destination(Taxi charges 7 yuan for the first km. then only 1 yuan/km). Internet access is $0.25/hr. Decent restaurants will set you back $10 to 15 per person. Most young people still live with parents because they can not afford to pay rent that run about $400/month in a fashionable area of a medium sized town. Real estate is running at $30/sq. meter. A Chinese made car cost 100,000 Yuan($12000 - considered cheap). Divorce rate is around 25%. The child support and alimony are to be "negotiated". One child policy is now causing its own problems with privileged, spoiled, self centered children who have to each take care of two elderly parents with no social security or medicare in place. Government health plans cover only 8 yuan(1$) of medicine. College costs $1000/semester that only wealthy can afford to pay. Media gives you practically no information. You have to read between the lines to get an idea about the problems. It sort of goes like this, such and such problem was fixed. The fact there is a problem is never mentioned. So local knowledge is necessary to find out what happens where. Does China have problems? You bet.
The open question is how will China deal with its population's demand for more power in self governance (People say they have to change in 5 years!), Crime, unemployment, health care, care for elderly, children, women's rights and pollution. China may have emerged from third world status but now faces faces problems of an industrialized nation. Change at a rapid pace can bring its own problems, a bubble economy and possible chaos at its collapse. China is trying to engineer a soft landing now. Whether that will happen remains to be seen.
Tips for Travelers:
When to go: Spring, Fall
Travel Agent:
Helen Yue
China Custom Tours
1-800-865-6221
Visa for Tibet/China:
Do not mention Tibet in your request for China Visa, you may not get it. Mention China cities and leave Tibet for travel agent
Hotels:
Xian: Sheraton
Toilet: If you see a decent toilet or when the guide tells you if you want to use the toilet do. Chinese toilet has been likened to the experience of sticking a fork in an electric socket.
Dental Floss: A must, food has a tendency to get stuck in ways that could cost you sizeable dental bills upon return.
CHINA 2007
China remains an enduring attraction despite the hardship of getting there and language difficulties. I wanted to see the miracle with my own eyes before the Olympic rush. This trip was to concentrate on the World Heritage sites in Beijing and Anhui province. Beijing is a sprawling, modern metropolis with all of a large city's charm and inherent difficulties. They have essentially rebuilt the entire city on a modern scale that resembles any modern metropolis in the western world. It is modern, efficient, clean and safe. Public transportation is by Bus and underground train. The Chinese cab drivers have better manners now after a government drive. It is not an expensive city to live in although the traffic on the roads can be in a state of gridlock at rush hour. Most young people speak English and road signs in central Beijing are in English. Plenty of malls and supermarkets some for just foreigners where sellers shout a welcome and chase you with bargains. Modern expensive malls have the same merchandise as anywhere else in the world. Internet is freely available although you must be wary of viruses. Food is of excellent quality and Beijing Duck that takes 45 minutes to cook indeed a marvel. There is a certain palpable buzz or excitement in this rapidly growing city. Everyone is busy making money. Politics is off limits. The Chinese in general seem quite confident of handling their problems from the aged, lay offs, social security or healthcare. They remain in awe of America but certain to create an America in their country. They have learnt customer service and customer surveys. Most everything being built from Airports to roads to malls to apartment buildings, everything is world class and not third world as you are likely to see in India. The size of their economy is now 1/3 of US and may soon surpass it. The marginal impact (in actual dollar terms) of Chinese economy is now larger than US. Their problems are now food inflation, pollution and poverty in the inner China. However, their optimism is impressive.
Sights
Most of the World Heritage sites are not all that impressive in the city. Tiananmen Square is the largest in the world. Forbidden palace does not have a whole lot to see. Temple of heaven has one interesting building. Neither the Ming tombs nor the Sacred road are worth the effort. The great wall is nice but not that big of a deal. The better places to visit that are not mentioned by travel agencies are the Lama temple and the Summer palace outside the city.
Xidi is a 9th century village preserved in its antiquity and worth the trip. The hub of activity is Tunxi that in itself is a cool, quiet city. Huangshan mountains or Yellow Mountain is worth the trip and the hassle of climbing endless steps seemingly for ever. The sights are breathtaking and take the sting out of the extensive exercise.
Travel agent: www.chinaodysseytours.com/